Quote from a post by Jeremy (maules.com) at this post:
http://www.maulepilots.org/Hangartalk/v ... g&start=15
Starting at the beginning and setting everything to factory spec is worth doing. Over time, cumulative effect of minor tweaks to control surfaces, bending or warping of flaps and ailerons, spring tensions changing etc etc leave you chasing conflicting adjustments.
Wish we could make some posts, like this one, a sticky.
Kirk
quote=maules.com post_id=47199 time=1505410919 user_id=36]
It seems about once a year the rigging comes up.
It is pointless chasing a rig problem without starting from scratch.
Yes, you can fix a situation but at the expense of drag from the next situation.
1. Level the plane laterally using wing root carry through tube behind top of windshield, and by jacking the gear.
2. Check that the tailplane hinge line matches laterally.
3. Run a stringline from inboard edge of composite wing tips and check it is level laterally.
4. Adjust front wing struts to achieve level lateral stringline, and a 3" gap above wingspar roots.
5. Adjust rear struts to achieve the washout in each wing, 1/2 degree trailing edge up at outboard rib.
6. Check the vertical stabilizer is 90 degrees to the elevator hinge line which you have leveled by checking and if necessary changing tail struts.
7. Run a stringline from top of rudder and vertical stab when faired and the line should extend to a point 1 3/4" to left of centre of wing root carry through tube.(This combats left turning tendency in cruise).
8. Adjust the elevators so that the balance portion is equal and flush with stabilizers at BOTH sides otherwise it will roll the plane.
9. Place light upward hand pressure on flap trailing edge and adjust with pushrod until faired correctly with bottom of wing.
Check Both ends of each flap.
Do Not use wing root fairing for reference.
10. Tie a stick across bottom of both control yokes catching four points.
Adjust with turnbuckles.
11. Using above headliner turnbuckles adjust ailerons individually until flush with bottom of wing, checking at both ends of aileron.
IF any of flaps and ailerons is not close to flush with wing bottom at BOTH ends, there is a twisted control surface and the correct rigging will be compromised.
12. Adjust rudder trim bungee so that the spring is slack with T handle fully in (this is for right turn tendency in descent) and light tension on spring when T handle is at one and a half marks on shaft showing.
13. Adjust tail steering springs correctly with a little slack or they will affect the rudder trim.
14. Adjust the rudder servo tab flush with rudder when ailerons are locked together with the stick.
15. Be sure that with no load on either the tailwheel or the nose wheel, the swivel is not too sticky otherwise the wheel will act as a rudder.
It can be kicked loose to go in trail when in flight prior to setting rudder trim.
16. Adjust the rudder centering springs (not on M4 and M5) to be no shorter than 4.5" and to hold the rudder centered when no load on the tail.
Only now can you test fly the rigging as you will be starting from square One, and fine adjustments can be done for roll or yaw.
All the above is in your Maule Maintenance Manual
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